Most tracking problems are not device problems. They are fitting problems: a power wire on a circuit that goes dead with the key, an ignition wire left unconnected, an antenna buried under metal, or a SIM with the wrong APN. This guide walks through a standard wired tracker installation so the device reports from day one and keeps reporting.
It applies to the common 12/24 V wired trackers (GT06 family, Concox, Teltonika FMB, Queclink GV, Meitrack and most AIS-140 devices). Plug-in OBD trackers and battery-only magnetic trackers need no wiring; skip to the testing section for those.
What you need
- The tracker, its wiring harness and the relay if you ordered engine cut-off.
- An activated 2G/4G SIM (M2M data SIM is best; a normal prepaid SIM also works) with data enabled.
- A multimeter or a 12/24 V test lamp.
- Wire stripper, insulation tape or heat-shrink, cable ties, and a few splice connectors.
- The vehicle's fuse box location (owner's manual or a quick search for the model).
- Your tracking platform login so you can see the device come online.
Step 1: Choose the mounting spot
The device must see the sky through plastic or glass, not metal. Good positions:
- Cars and SUVs: behind the dashboard, above the glovebox or near the instrument cluster, with the GPS antenna side facing up.
- Trucks and buses: behind the dashboard panel on the driver's side, or inside the overhead console. Avoid the floor under the seat; a steel cab floor blocks the signal.
- Two-wheelers: under the seat or inside the headlamp cowl, in a waterproof enclosure.
- Machines and tractors: inside the cab console, or in a sealed IP67 box under the bonnet away from the exhaust.
Keep the device away from the engine block, the audio amplifier and the gas-kit ECU. Do not wrap it in aluminium foil "for safety"; that is the most common reason for a device that shows no GPS fix.
Step 2: Find the three wires
Every wired tracker needs three connections. Use the multimeter to confirm each one before you splice.
| Wire | What to find | How to test |
|---|---|---|
| Permanent positive (red) | A circuit that stays live with the key off and removed: the battery feed to the fuse box, the hazard light fuse, or the cigarette lighter if it is always on | Meter shows 12 V (or 24 V on trucks) with the key off |
| Ground (black) | A metal bolt on the chassis or the dash frame, not a painted panel | Meter shows 0 V to the positive; scrape paint if needed |
| Ignition (usually white or yellow) | A circuit that is live only with the key in ON: the ignition fuse, the radio accessory feed, or the coil feed | Meter shows 12 V with the key on, 0 V with it off |
For 24 V trucks, confirm the tracker accepts 9 to 36 V (most do). If it is a 12 V-only device, add the step-down converter supplied with it. Never wire a tracker directly to the alternator or starter cable.
Step 3: Connect and insulate
- Switch off the vehicle and disconnect the battery negative if you are working near the fuse box.
- Strip 8 to 10 mm of insulation on the vehicle wire, wrap the tracker wire around it twice, and solder or use a splice connector. Twisted wires held with tape loosen in a month of vibration.
- Insulate every joint with heat-shrink or tape.
- Connect ground first, then ignition, then permanent positive. The device will beep or flash its LEDs when powered.
- Route the harness away from the pedals, the steering column and any moving part.
- Fix the device with a cable tie or double-sided tape, antenna up, LEDs visible until testing is complete.
If you fitted a relay for engine cut-off, it goes in series with the fuel pump or the ignition coil feed, never in the starter circuit. Test the cut command once with the engine running at idle before closing the dashboard.
Step 4: SIM and APN
Insert the SIM with the device powered off. Most Indian M2M SIMs set their APN automatically. If the GSM LED keeps blinking fast and the device never comes online, send the APN command by SMS. The APN names in common use:
- Airtel:
airtelgprs.com - Jio:
jionet - Vi (Vodafone Idea):
wwworportalnmms - BSNL:
bsnlnet
The command format differs by brand; for the GT06 family it is APN,airtelgprs.com#, for Teltonika it is setparam 2001:airtelgprs.com with the SMS login prefix. Your supplier's data sheet lists it. Then point the device at the platform with the server command, for example SERVER,1,track.saraltrack.com,5023,0# for GT06 devices, using the host and port your platform gives for that protocol.
Step 5: Test before closing the panel
- Take the vehicle outside; a device cannot get a first GPS fix inside a shed.
- Wait for the GPS LED to go steady or slow-blink (two to five minutes on first use).
- Open the tracking platform. The device should show online with a position within 50 metres of where you stand.
- Turn the key on and off. The ignition status on the platform must follow it within one minute. If it does not, the ignition wire is on the wrong circuit.
- Drive 500 metres. The position should move and the speed should show.
- Lock the vehicle, wait ten minutes, confirm the device is still online. If it went offline, the red wire is on a circuit that dies with the key.
Only now close the dashboard and tidy the cables.
The four fitting mistakes behind most offline devices
- Positive on an ignition circuit. The device loses power every time the key goes off, runs on its small battery for an hour, then goes offline overnight. Parking alerts cannot work.
- Ignition wire not connected or wrong. The platform never shows the engine running, so idle time, engine hours and ignition alerts are all empty.
- Antenna under metal. No GPS fix, or a position that jumps hundreds of metres. Move the device, do not replace it.
- SIM without data or with a wrong APN. The GSM LED blinks but the device never connects. Check the SIM in a phone first.
AIS-140 devices: two extra steps
A certified AIS-140 device also needs its panic buttons wired (usually two, within reach of the driver and passengers) and registration on the state VLTD portal with the vehicle number, chassis number and device IMEI. The device then reports to the state backend and to your platform in parallel. Read What is AIS-140 for the full requirements.
After fitting: what to set on the platform
- Device name = vehicle number, so reports read like your records.
- Odometer start value from the dashboard, so distance reports match.
- Fuel tank capacity and the vehicle's expected mileage, so the fuel log can flag overfills and mileage drops.
- Overspeed limit and the alerts you want (ignition, geofence, towing).
- A geofence on your yard or office.
FAQ
How long does GPS tracker installation take?
About 30 minutes for a car or truck once the fuse box is located, and up to an hour on a bus or machine with a long cable run. Testing adds ten minutes outside.
Can I install a GPS tracker myself?
Yes, if you can use a multimeter and find a fuse box. Warranty on new vehicles is a consideration: use fuse taps on the fuse box instead of cutting factory wires.
Will the tracker drain the vehicle battery?
A wired tracker draws 20 to 60 mA while reporting and less than 5 mA in sleep. A healthy battery is not affected for weeks of parking. A vehicle parked more than a month should have the battery disconnected or the tracker on a sleep schedule.
Where should I hide a GPS tracker in a car?
Behind the dashboard above the glovebox is both hidden and clear of metal. Avoid the boot floor and under-seat positions; they are the first places a thief checks and the GPS signal is weak there.
Why does my GPS tracker show the wrong location?
Usually a poor GPS fix caused by the mounting position, or the device reporting its last known position while it is indoors. Move it to a spot with a view of the sky through plastic or glass.